Shiitake Mushroom Crostini topped with Parmesan Cheese

The Cocktail Party is a perennial fixture

of summer in the Hamptons. Let’s face it, it’s a great way to get all your

social commitments covered in one big bash.

It generally lasts a finite number of hours, usually three at most, and

gives you a chance to put people together without worrying yourself sick over

whether they’ll get along at a dinner table.

Of

course, with something as ubiquitous as the

Alec Waugh

Cocktail Party, there’s bound to be

some question over who first invented it.

Alec Waugh, an English writer and the elder brother of the better-known

Evelyn Waugh, is often given the credit for inventing the Cocktail Party. In the 1920s in London, he served Rum

Swizzles to an astonished group of friends who thought they’d been invited for

tea. Early evening drinks parties in London took off from there. But the actual credit for the invention of the Cocktail Party must go to a

Mrs. Julius S. Walsh Jr of St. Louis, Missouri.

In May of 1917, Mrs. Walsh invited 50 guests to her house on a Sunday at

high noon for a drinks party with a one-hour duration. The event was written up in the St. The home of Mrs. Julius Walsh Jr.

now owned, ironically, by the

Diocese of St. Louis

Paul MN.

Pioneer Press. Since St. Paul is over 500 miles from St. Louis, Mrs. Walsh’s party

must have been wildly newsworthy perhaps because Mrs. Walsh's invitees must have come directly from church services to drink at Mrs. Walsh's. The

newspaper reported “The party scored an instant hit” and noted that within weeks,

cocktail parties had become “a St. Louis institution”. And what about the food?

The key to a great cocktail party

is to never run out of ice or liquor and to serve enough food that no matter

how much liquor is served, there’s plenty to sop it up. And I

would add it’s a great idea to make something that the attendees have not seen

at every single cocktail they’ve attended all year. Here’s where today’s recipe comes in: it’s a flavorful addition to any hors

d’oeuvres tray that puts together meaty shiitake mushrooms, crisp bits of

pancetta, scallions, shallots, dill and grated parmesan cheese atop “Crostini”,

rounds or ovals of bread that have been brushed with olive oil and lightly

toasted. The mushroom topping not at all

hard to make and can be done so in advance.

Jane and John of Long Island Mushroom Inc.I’ve

mentioned my fondness for Long Island Mushroom Inc. shiitakes before and also

for their growers. Jane Maguire and John

Quigley have quietly been building their mushroom business out here to the

point where Jane’s name is appearing on the menu at Almond Restaurant (1 Ocean

Road, Bridgehampton Tel: 631-537-5665).

Home cooks can find their mushrooms at local farmer’s markets in

Greenport and at the market at the North Fork Tavern and Inn. I developed this recipe using their shiitakes.

Obviously this is my mushroom of choice

but any great shiitake will do. And here

it is:

an additional 3 minutes or until lightly golden. Remove from oven and set aside.

To make the Mushroom topping:

Heat a large skillet and add diced

pancetta to the pan. Over medium heat

cook the pancetta until it releases its fat and the diced pancetta is

crisp. With a slotted spoon, remove

pancetta dice.

Add shallots and scallions to the

pan and cook briefly until they are softened.

Add sliced Shiitake mushrooms to

the mixture and cook until the mushrooms have released their liquid and are

lightly browned.

4.

Stir in the pancetta and dill. Season to taste with salt and freshly-ground

pepper.

5.

Turn on oven to Broil. Put a

tablespoonful of the mushroom mixture atop each Crostini and put them on to a

cookie sheet or sheet pan. Top each with

grated parmesan and place under broiler for 2-3 minutes or until cheese is

melted. Serve.